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斜面上における砕波の流速に関する実験的研究
https://kitami-it.repo.nii.ac.jp/records/6299
fb067a3f-3fa4-49ba-b7a5-ac82e34729b3
名前 / ファイル | ライセンス | アクション | |
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Item type | 紀要論文 / Departmental Bulletin Paper(1) | |||||
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公開日 | 2007-04-09 | |||||
タイトル | ||||||
タイトル | 斜面上における砕波の流速に関する実験的研究 | |||||
言語 | ||||||
言語 | jpn | |||||
資源タイプ | ||||||
資源 | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 | |||||
タイプ | departmental bulletin paper | |||||
その他のタイトル | ||||||
その他のタイトル | An Experimental Study on the Particle velocity of a Breaking Wave on a Sloping Beach | |||||
著者 |
佐藤, 幸雄
× 佐藤, 幸雄× 内島, 邦秀 |
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著者別名 | ||||||
識別子 | ||||||
識別子 | 32077 | |||||
識別子Scheme | WEKO | |||||
姓名 | ||||||
姓名 | Yukio, SATO | |||||
著者別名 | ||||||
識別子 | ||||||
識別子 | 32078 | |||||
識別子Scheme | WEKO | |||||
姓名 | ||||||
姓名 | Kunihide, UCHIJIMA | |||||
抄録 | ||||||
内容記述タイプ | Abstract | |||||
内容記述 | A study of the characteristical behavior of a breaking wave on a sloping beach is very significant to solve the problems of sand-drift on the beach. In previous papers,the study to estimate the height of a wave at its breaking point was mainly performed theoretically or experimentally. In this paper, the velocity component, caused by the propagation of a breaking wave,is treated,and for this experiment a small amplitude wave is used. First,dimensionless variables u^-√<ghσ> derived from the solitary wave theories are compared with the experimental values of the bottom velocity at its breaking point,and relations between u^-√<ghσ> and wave steepness H/L are closely examined. Secondly,an attempt is approximately made to apply the bore theory (by Keller and Whitham)to the treatment of transformation of the height of a breaking wave and of the particle velocity in surf region. As a result,it is found that near the breaking point,experimental value u^-√<ghσ> comparatively agrees with the theoretical curve | |||||
書誌情報 |
北見工業大学研究報告 巻 3, 号 2, p. 443-454, 発行日 1972-06 |
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フォーマット | ||||||
内容記述タイプ | Other | |||||
内容記述 | application/pdf | |||||
著者版フラグ | ||||||
値 | publisher | |||||
出版者 | ||||||
出版者 | 北見工業大学 |