@article{oai:kitami-it.repo.nii.ac.jp:00006299,
 author = {佐藤, 幸雄 and 内島, 邦秀},
 issue = {2},
 journal = {北見工業大学研究報告},
 month = {Jun},
 note = {application/pdf, A study of the characteristical behavior of a breaking wave on a sloping beach is very significant to solve the problems of sand-drift on the beach. In previous papers，the study to estimate the height of a wave at its breaking point was mainly performed theoretically or experimentally. In this paper， the velocity component， caused by the propagation of a breaking wave，is treated，and for this experiment a small amplitude wave is used. First，dimensionless variables u^-√<ghσ>　derived from the solitary wave theories are compared with the experimental values　of the bottom velocity at its breaking point，and relations between u^-√<ghσ>　and wave steepness H/L　are　closely examined. Secondly，an attempt is approximately made to apply the bore theory （by Keller and Whitham）to the treatment of transformation of the height of a breaking wave and of the particle velocity in surf region. As　a　result，it　is　found　that　near　the　breaking　point，experimental　value u^-√<ghσ> comparatively agrees with the theoretical curve},
 pages = {443--454},
 title = {斜面上における砕波の流速に関する実験的研究},
 volume = {3},
 year = {1972}
}